心理科学进展 ›› 2023, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (12): 2419-2440.doi: 10.3724/SP.J.1042.2023.02419
• 研究前沿 • 上一篇
收稿日期:
2023-01-25
出版日期:
2023-12-15
发布日期:
2023-09-11
通讯作者:
王雪枫, E-mail: wangxuefeng@lzu.edu.cn
基金资助:
YAN Yan, LIU Wumei, WANG Xuefeng()
Received:
2023-01-25
Online:
2023-12-15
Published:
2023-09-11
摘要:
基于调节定向理论搭建了着装风格(正式vs.休闲)影响消费者心理和行为的模型框架。在观察者视角下, 他人正式着装(vs.休闲着装)时, 消费者通过关注收益、积极情绪体验、抱负目标状态表征这三个动机特征维度表现出促进型反应; 通过关注威胁、消极情绪体验、警戒行为策略这三个动机特征维度表现出预防型反应。在穿着者视角下, 消费者自身正式着装(vs.休闲着装)时, 通过理想自我导向、抱负目标状态表征及积极情绪体验这三个动机特征维度表现出促进型反应; 通过责任自我导向、道德需求、消极结果关注这三个动机特征维度表现出预防型反应。上述过程中自我建构、卷入度, 自我监控及环境规范通过影响调节定向的特征状态发挥调节作用。未来研究应继续关注特质性和情境性调节定向对消费者着装反应的交互影响, 用调节定向理论阐释其他着装类型对消费行为的影响, 着装风格导致消费者促进定向还是预防定向的调节变量, 以及着装风格影响消费者行为的其他后效。
中图分类号:
严燕, 柳武妹, 王雪枫. (2023). 他人和自身着装风格对消费行为的影响:基于调节定向理论的阐释. 心理科学进展 , 31(12), 2419-2440.
YAN Yan, LIU Wumei, WANG Xuefeng. (2023). The influence of others and self-dressing style on consumer behavior: An interpretation based on regulatory focus theory. Advances in Psychological Science, 31(12), 2419-2440.
介绍着装风格的理论文献 | 文献观点 | 评价 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
优点 | 缺点 | |||
社会比较(Social Comparison Theory) | Wang & Lang ( | 消费者将服务员的着装作为社会比较的参照点, 在感知服务员着装与品牌形象一致性的过程中, 形成对品牌的评价、态度, 进而影响消费者对品牌的趋避行为。 | 为服务员的着装是推动消费者与品牌关系的重要驱动力这一现象提供了理论支持。 | 认为减少消极情绪和追求人际归属是内在机制, 但无法分离这两种不同的动机。 |
内群偏爱(In-group Favoritism) | Hensley ( | 消费者将与自己的着装具有相似性的穿着者视为内群成员, 激活的共同身份感知会促进进一步互动。 | 可以解释消费者为何趋近与自己穿着相似的他人(如提供帮助)。 | 无法解释为什么消费者有时候也愿意趋近与自己穿着不相似的外群成员。 |
信号理论(Signaling Theory) | Kim & Baker ( | 消费者将服务人员的着装视为一种社交信号, 以此推断服务人员的个性特征、社会地位、动机等, 进而影响消费者的行为意向和与服务人员的关系。 | 为服务人员穿着暗示财富和社会地位的着装, 对消费者行为的双刃剑效应提供了基础框架。 | 不能解释对消费者行为的双刃剑效应的内在机制。 |
启发式加工(Heuristic Processing) | Forsythe ( | 消费者经常利用着装快速对他人(销售、服务人员)分类, 进行人格特征、能力等方面的推论。 | 为销售、服务员等他人的着装影响消费者行为是一种直觉过程提供了理论解释。 | 基于着装分类后进一步的推断过程如何发生是不清楚的。 |
印象形成模型(Model of Impression Formation) | Livesley & Bromley ( | 基于着装的印象形成有四个阶段:1.注意到他人的着装线索; 2.根据着装线索初步推断他人特征; 3.推断穿着者可能拥有的其他属性; 4.综合推断得出的信息形成对其他人做出响应的基础。 | 阐释了消费者基于销售、服务员的着装线索, 形成他人印象的基本过程。 | 不清楚消费者基于他人着装形成的印象, 进一步可能产生何种心理与行为反应。 |
符号互动理论(Symbolic Interaction) | Denzin ( | 着装是“建立个体身份的社会互动行为”, 人们通过协商赋予着装以意义, 并与特定身份相联系。 | 能解释销售、经销商、服务员的从众着装对消费者行为的积极影响。 | 将他人着装对消费者行为影响的作用机制局限于社会身份感知。 |
S-O-R模型(S-O-R model) | Chen & Lee ( | 令人愉悦的着装, 会让消费者体验到积极情绪, 导致接近行为。反之, 可能让消费者体验到消极情绪, 导致回避行为。 | 为理解他人着装影响消费者的趋避行为提供了一个基础框架。 | 只关注了情绪体验在他人着装与消费者行为关系中的机制作用。 |
调节定向理论(Regulatory Focus Theory) | 本文 | 销售、服务员, 代言人等他人的着装风格会影响消费者的调节定向, 进而产生促进型行为反应或预防型的行为反应。 | 该理论可以从目标状态表征、情感体验、结果关注点、以及行为策略四个方面, 阐释他人着装对消费者行为的双向影响及内在机制。 |
表1 观察者视角下着装风格研究采用理论的梳理及比较
介绍着装风格的理论文献 | 文献观点 | 评价 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
优点 | 缺点 | |||
社会比较(Social Comparison Theory) | Wang & Lang ( | 消费者将服务员的着装作为社会比较的参照点, 在感知服务员着装与品牌形象一致性的过程中, 形成对品牌的评价、态度, 进而影响消费者对品牌的趋避行为。 | 为服务员的着装是推动消费者与品牌关系的重要驱动力这一现象提供了理论支持。 | 认为减少消极情绪和追求人际归属是内在机制, 但无法分离这两种不同的动机。 |
内群偏爱(In-group Favoritism) | Hensley ( | 消费者将与自己的着装具有相似性的穿着者视为内群成员, 激活的共同身份感知会促进进一步互动。 | 可以解释消费者为何趋近与自己穿着相似的他人(如提供帮助)。 | 无法解释为什么消费者有时候也愿意趋近与自己穿着不相似的外群成员。 |
信号理论(Signaling Theory) | Kim & Baker ( | 消费者将服务人员的着装视为一种社交信号, 以此推断服务人员的个性特征、社会地位、动机等, 进而影响消费者的行为意向和与服务人员的关系。 | 为服务人员穿着暗示财富和社会地位的着装, 对消费者行为的双刃剑效应提供了基础框架。 | 不能解释对消费者行为的双刃剑效应的内在机制。 |
启发式加工(Heuristic Processing) | Forsythe ( | 消费者经常利用着装快速对他人(销售、服务人员)分类, 进行人格特征、能力等方面的推论。 | 为销售、服务员等他人的着装影响消费者行为是一种直觉过程提供了理论解释。 | 基于着装分类后进一步的推断过程如何发生是不清楚的。 |
印象形成模型(Model of Impression Formation) | Livesley & Bromley ( | 基于着装的印象形成有四个阶段:1.注意到他人的着装线索; 2.根据着装线索初步推断他人特征; 3.推断穿着者可能拥有的其他属性; 4.综合推断得出的信息形成对其他人做出响应的基础。 | 阐释了消费者基于销售、服务员的着装线索, 形成他人印象的基本过程。 | 不清楚消费者基于他人着装形成的印象, 进一步可能产生何种心理与行为反应。 |
符号互动理论(Symbolic Interaction) | Denzin ( | 着装是“建立个体身份的社会互动行为”, 人们通过协商赋予着装以意义, 并与特定身份相联系。 | 能解释销售、经销商、服务员的从众着装对消费者行为的积极影响。 | 将他人着装对消费者行为影响的作用机制局限于社会身份感知。 |
S-O-R模型(S-O-R model) | Chen & Lee ( | 令人愉悦的着装, 会让消费者体验到积极情绪, 导致接近行为。反之, 可能让消费者体验到消极情绪, 导致回避行为。 | 为理解他人着装影响消费者的趋避行为提供了一个基础框架。 | 只关注了情绪体验在他人着装与消费者行为关系中的机制作用。 |
调节定向理论(Regulatory Focus Theory) | 本文 | 销售、服务员, 代言人等他人的着装风格会影响消费者的调节定向, 进而产生促进型行为反应或预防型的行为反应。 | 该理论可以从目标状态表征、情感体验、结果关注点、以及行为策略四个方面, 阐释他人着装对消费者行为的双向影响及内在机制。 |
介绍着装风格的理论文献 | 文献观点 | 评价 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
优点 | 缺点 | |||
具衣认知(Enclothed Cognition) | Adam & Galinsky ( | 当消费者穿具有象征意义的着装, 身体体验可以激活与着装风格相一致的自我概念, 从而影响心理过程和行为倾向。 | 揭示了着装对消费者产生影响的内在机制是激活的自我概念。 | 把着装对穿着者的影响完全归结为基于身体体验的认知表征过程。 |
物质启动(Material Priming) | Wang等( | 消费者身穿某一着装(如, 正式着装)时, 伴随的身体体验可以增加与该着装的象征意义(如, 竞争取向)一致行为的现象。 | 提出消费者自身着装对其消费行为的影响是一种启动效应。 | 忽略了情感、动机在着装影响过程中的作用。 |
自我知觉理论(Self-perception Theory) | Kwon ( | 消费者会通过自身着装线索推断自己的态度和其他内部状态, 且这一过程与推断他人的过程没有本质区别。 | 指出着装对穿着者行为的影响主要是基于自我理想形象的期望。 | 将基于着装知觉自己的过程与基于着装知觉他人的过程完全等同。 |
客体化理论(Objectification Theory) | Lopresti-Goodman等(2010) | 身穿紧身的、限制身体自由的着装, 会提高消费者的身体自我监测进而消耗其心理资源, 使用于其他活动的心理资源受限, 影响认知表现。 | 阐明紧身、限制身体自由(vs.宽松)着装影响认知表现的过程, 关注了体验情绪的作用。 | 不能解释消费者自身着装对不涉及认知资源损耗行为的影响。 |
调节定向理论(Regulatory Focus Theory) | 本文 | 消费者自身的着装风格会影响其调节定向, 进而产生促进型或预防型的行为反应。 | 该理论可以从满足的需求类型、自我导向类型、结果关注点, 情绪体验以及目标状态表征五个方面, 阐释消费者自身着装对消费者行为的双向影响及内在机制。 |
表2 穿着者视角下着装风格研究采用的理论梳理及比较
介绍着装风格的理论文献 | 文献观点 | 评价 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
优点 | 缺点 | |||
具衣认知(Enclothed Cognition) | Adam & Galinsky ( | 当消费者穿具有象征意义的着装, 身体体验可以激活与着装风格相一致的自我概念, 从而影响心理过程和行为倾向。 | 揭示了着装对消费者产生影响的内在机制是激活的自我概念。 | 把着装对穿着者的影响完全归结为基于身体体验的认知表征过程。 |
物质启动(Material Priming) | Wang等( | 消费者身穿某一着装(如, 正式着装)时, 伴随的身体体验可以增加与该着装的象征意义(如, 竞争取向)一致行为的现象。 | 提出消费者自身着装对其消费行为的影响是一种启动效应。 | 忽略了情感、动机在着装影响过程中的作用。 |
自我知觉理论(Self-perception Theory) | Kwon ( | 消费者会通过自身着装线索推断自己的态度和其他内部状态, 且这一过程与推断他人的过程没有本质区别。 | 指出着装对穿着者行为的影响主要是基于自我理想形象的期望。 | 将基于着装知觉自己的过程与基于着装知觉他人的过程完全等同。 |
客体化理论(Objectification Theory) | Lopresti-Goodman等(2010) | 身穿紧身的、限制身体自由的着装, 会提高消费者的身体自我监测进而消耗其心理资源, 使用于其他活动的心理资源受限, 影响认知表现。 | 阐明紧身、限制身体自由(vs.宽松)着装影响认知表现的过程, 关注了体验情绪的作用。 | 不能解释消费者自身着装对不涉及认知资源损耗行为的影响。 |
调节定向理论(Regulatory Focus Theory) | 本文 | 消费者自身的着装风格会影响其调节定向, 进而产生促进型或预防型的行为反应。 | 该理论可以从满足的需求类型、自我导向类型、结果关注点, 情绪体验以及目标状态表征五个方面, 阐释消费者自身着装对消费者行为的双向影响及内在机制。 |
特征 | 促进定向(promotion focus) | 预防定向(prevention focus) |
---|---|---|
满足的需要类型 | 提高需要(advancement, 成长、发展等) | 安全需要(security, 保护、免受伤害等) |
目标状态表征 | 抱负和完成 | 责任和安全 |
自我导向类型 | 希望、目标、愿望和抱负 | 责任、义务和职责 |
情绪体验 | 喜悦—沮丧等情绪 | 放松—焦虑等情绪 |
结果的关注点 | 有没有积极结果 | 有没有消极结果 |
行为策略 | 使用热切(eagerness)策略, 保证击中(hits), 避免漏报(misses) | 使用警戒(vigilance)策略, 保证正确拒绝 (correct rejections), 避免错报(false alarm) |
表3 不同调节定向的特征总结
特征 | 促进定向(promotion focus) | 预防定向(prevention focus) |
---|---|---|
满足的需要类型 | 提高需要(advancement, 成长、发展等) | 安全需要(security, 保护、免受伤害等) |
目标状态表征 | 抱负和完成 | 责任和安全 |
自我导向类型 | 希望、目标、愿望和抱负 | 责任、义务和职责 |
情绪体验 | 喜悦—沮丧等情绪 | 放松—焦虑等情绪 |
结果的关注点 | 有没有积极结果 | 有没有消极结果 |
行为策略 | 使用热切(eagerness)策略, 保证击中(hits), 避免漏报(misses) | 使用警戒(vigilance)策略, 保证正确拒绝 (correct rejections), 避免错报(false alarm) |
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